The NYC Diamond District in Manhattan is full of life; you experience all the shine and all the gems and oh so many fliers.

Hence, during my recent stop to the District, I wore dark shades, a face mask along and a hat to keep it low key. I wanted to look at jewelry in peace.

I would have found this place overwhelming a few years ago, but now it is simply business.

And now I am passing on some of the things I've learned on to you:

I. THE METAL:

There is white gold, yellow gold, sterling silver, copper, platinum and so much more. During my quarantine activities, I had the pleasure of writing a detailed guide on everything metal. But the short version for you all is that when I design and make jewelry, I select metal based on the look and the desired properties such as strength, ductility and hardness.

Sterling Silver is made from 92.5% fine silver and copper. It is alloyed with copper to make it stronger.

Gold is mixed with other metals such as copper and silver, primarily to make the metal stronger, change its color and to lower costs.

Pure gold is referred to as 24 karats (K). The lower the number of karats the less the gold content.

For example, 18K gold means 18 parts gold and 6 parts other metal; out of 24 parts gold. Therefore, the metal is 75% gold and 25% other metals. While 14K gold is 14 parts gold and 10 parts other metal. Making it 58.3% gold and 41.7% other.

I use 18K or higher because of its rich yellow color.

By far, my favorite gold alloy is 22K gold for one main reason; I use 22K gold for granulation. The high gold content facilitates the fusion of each granule to the surface of the metal.

The high gold content also makes 22K jewelry durable and timeless; I can swim in saltwater without the fear of my jewelry tarnishing or turning my skin green or any other color.

I cannot say the same for plated jewelry.

The saying, not everything that shines is gold comes from somewhere.

For example, some brands advertise their jewelry simply as "gold". Read closely and look for any terms such as Vermeil or plated. These terms mean that the metal is not solid gold—even if the claim is “Thick-Gold-Coating”. The reality is that you are not buying solid gold, just a layer of gold on top of a cheaper metal.

II. A WORD ON GEMSTONES:

There are so many of them. You can find gemstones to fit whatever mood you are in whether that be Sapphires, Aquamarines, Emeralds, Rubies or Diamonds.

So how much are these?

The key here is quantity/rarity and demand. This is where my Econ degree comes in handy; the lower the supply of stones—the higher the demand, the higher the price and vice versa. Things that are taken into consideration include quality of the stone, beauty, size, origin source, natural or lab created, treated or and intensity of color.

II. Part B: DIAMONDS, MY FAVORITE:

Diamonds are the four C’s; Cut, Color, Clarity, Carat. The higher the quality and in the case of Carat the size, of each of these metrics and the rarer the diamond, the higher the price tag.

Natural blue, red and pink diamonds are the rarest and most sought after diamonds in the world, making them some of the most expensive in the world.

I use the four C's as a purchasing tool and not the decision-maker as to what diamonds I use. Sometimes a smaller diamond will outshine any other stone in a room or simply be better suited for a project. It is not all about size.

So what are the different types of diamonds?

A natural diamond is formed under extreme pressure and heat deep in the Earth. It is later mined, cut and polished.

A treated diamond also forms naturally but has some sort of human alteration whether that is heat treatment or radiation to enhance its color or quality. The changes are permanent, but command a lower price tag because of the alteration.

A lab-created diamond has the same chemical properties as natural diamonds but is made in a lab thus command a lower price tag than a natural one,

and finally simulated stones such as Zirconia or Moissanite look similar to diamonds but are an entirely different story. They do not share the same chemical or functional properties as diamonds.

My one recommendation is to research

In my work, I use only natural diamonds. I try to stay away from trends and prefer to use stones that will endure the test of time and originate from reputable sources and are mined responsibly.

If you buy an expensive diamond (some of you have expensive taste); the GIA Report from the Gemological Institute of America is your best friend. This independent evaluation verifies the four C's and guarantees you are getting what you are paying for. A large and relatively expensive diamond (lets say one carat and higher) from a reputable source will include a GIA report but if not the GIA will analyze a stone and verify the four C's for you for a fee.

III. CRAFTSMANSHIP:

A lot of jewelry looks a lot like each other to the untrained eye but it is the details that reveal true beauty. I find simplicity beautiful. I like to see creativity and elegance exuberating from a piece rather than a necklace simply bathing in diamonds.

I find seduction in the details and not the number of diamonds.

At the end of the day, the most important thing about a piece is how happy you are and how it makes you feel. This guide was just a peek into the science and art that is jewelry.

If you are interested in reading more about this check out The Art is in Details and Ancient Greek Gold Granulation.